伊丽莎白·威尔逊 — 作者 (7)
Adorned in Dreams [图书] 豆瓣
作者: Elizabeth Wilson 出版社: I. B. Tauris 2013 - 2
When "Adorned in Dreams" was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as 'the best I have read on the subject, bar none'. Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or to subvert it and this brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the 'boho chic' of the mid 90's, retro-dressing and the meanings of dress from the veil to Beck's pink-varnished toenails.
梦想的装扮 [图书] 豆瓣
Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity
作者: 伊丽莎白·威尔逊 译者: 孟雅 / 刘锐 出版社: 重庆大学出版社 2020
《梦想的装扮:时尚与现代性》是一本关于服饰文化类图书。作者通过此书探究了人类通过时装或其他配饰进行自我修饰行为背后复杂的社会因素,分析了这些社会因素与现代性的关系。该书于1985年首次出版,被著名作家安吉拉•卡特誉为:“这是我读过的最好的时尚类图书,没有‘之一’。”,2013年的更新版,加入了对90年代和20世纪出的一些时尚现象的分析,如受乐队文化影响而出现的“垃圾风”,90年代兴起的波西米亚风格,等等。
《梦想的装扮:时尚与现代性》作为时尚研究领域的重要著作,它为研究时尚文化和喜爱时尚文化的读者提供了很多新的思路,从社会学、历史学、产业经济学等多角度去看待时尚。
万花筒——身体、服饰与文化系列
《巴黎时尚界的日本浪潮》
《时尚的艺术与批评》
《时尚都市:快时尚的代价与服装业的未来》
《梦想的装扮:时尚与现代性》
《男装革命:当代男性时尚的转变》
《时尚的启迪:关键思想家导读》
《前沿时尚:景观、现代性与死亡》
愛與熱情的網球史 [图书] 豆瓣
Love Game: A History of Tennis, From Victorian Pastime to Global Phenomenon
作者: 伊莉莎白‧威爾森 / Elizabeth Wilson 译者: 鍾玉玨 出版社: 木馬文化事業有限公司 2017 - 6
★入圍2014年William Hill年度最佳運動圖書
★研究網球百年文化必讀
一部縝密考究又迷人浪漫的文化史
見證時代騷動,打造世代傳奇,銘刻經典身影——網球女神蘇珊‧朗格倫、法國浪漫四劍客、悲劇人物提爾登、澳洲國寶羅德‧拉沃、叛逆火爆馬克安諾、冰冷拘謹博格、優雅費德勒、蠻牛納達爾、諧趣喬科維奇……
■19世紀的草地網球,只是體弱男子與蒼白淑女打發時間的娛樂?
■1880年代,女生穿馬甲與鋼線裙撐打網球才算優雅?
■1920年代,風靡全歐的蘇珊‧朗格倫在比賽時補充體力靠的是威士忌和咖啡?
■1930年代,接受贊助打球很可恥,「冒牌業餘」選手竄起讓網壇傷透腦筋?
■英國選手弗雷德‧佩里的穿衣小心機,純白行頭竟比對手更有精神?
■1950年代,古西‧莫蘭的蕾絲底褲外露,居然成為新聞頭條?
■1973年,ATP選手為何集體抵制溫布頓網球錦標賽?
網球最早起源據傳為中世紀的掌球遊戲,但於19世紀以改良後的草地網球(Sphairistike)風靡英國上流社會,舉辦場地多在新興的城鎮市郊,成為有錢有閒布爾喬亞階級的花園派對點綴。其時輿論認為網球「不夠陽剛」、「簡單如玩紙牌」的特性,在當時咸認女性不宜拋頭露面的風氣下,讓淑女得以在社交場合與男性同場較勁,一展球技,網球因此成為時髦男女的聯誼場合。首屆溫布頓錦標賽於1877年舉辦,此後成為社交盛事,遲至1884年才開放讓女子參賽。
網球熱迅速蔓延至歐陸與北美,也席捲澳洲與印度。歷經兩次世界大戰,走過1920年代的瘋狂享樂,1960年代的虛幻失落,於網球公開化年代之後,將網球推向職業運動領域。個人風格搶眼的球星輩出:1920年代最知名的兩位網球名人是被喻為網球女神的蘇珊‧朗格倫,與打法多元稱霸網壇的比爾‧提爾登;來自美國「撲克臉小姐」海倫‧威爾斯‧穆迪;代表浪漫騎士精神的法國四劍客,其一的瑞內‧拉科斯特更是鱷魚牌衣飾的創辦人。也有從球童起家,退役後成為「溫網之聲」的BBC網球評論員丹恩‧麥斯凱爾的一路奮鬥;印度名將維傑.亞米崔吉;亞瑟.艾許奪得美國公開賽冠軍,是歷來第一位非白人選手封王。
然而現今一票難求的四大滿貫賽,也曾面臨與時代脫節的困境,票房慘澹無比,守舊的網壇甚至遭受抵制而推行改革。場上締造傳奇與榮耀,場外是龐大商機與時尚指標,結合民族主義與英雄崇拜的瘋魔,突顯超越極限與鍛鍊心智的競技特質,成就一場又一場驚心動魄的賽事傳說。
本書以文化史的犀利眼光回顧網壇,綜觀每個世代的代表人物,凝結百年文化的經典時刻。並且細膩陳述其時歷史文化與經濟背景,深刻描繪網球如何從維多利亞時期的男女聯誼,成為決鬥競技。
The Sphinx in the City [图书] 豆瓣
作者: Elizabeth Wilson 出版社: University of California Press 1992 - 3
Elizabeth Wilson's elegant, provocative, and scholarly study uses fiction, essays, film, and art, as well as history and sociology, to look at some of the world's greatest cities - London, Paris, Moscow, New York, Chicago, Lusaka, and Sao Paulo - and presents a powerful critique of utopian planning, anti-urbanism, postmodernism, and traditional architecture. For women the city offers freedom, including sexual freedom, but also new dangers. Planners and reformers have repeatedly attempted to regulate women - and the working class and ethnic minorities - by means of grandiose, utopian plans, nearly destroying the richness of urban culture. City centers have become uninhabited business districts, the countryside suburbanized. There is danger without pleasure, consumerism without choice, safety without stimulation. What is needed is a new understanding of city life and Wilson gives us an intriguing introduction to what this might be.
Adorned in Dreams [图书] 豆瓣
作者: Elizabeth Wilson 出版社: Rutgers University Press 2003
When Adorned in Dreams was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as "the best I have read on the subject, bar none." From haute couture to haberdashery, "deviant" dress to Dior, Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. She also discusses fashion's vociferous opponents, from the "dress reform" movement to certain strands of feminism. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or subvert it. This brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the "boho chic" of the mid 90's, retro-dressing, and the meanings of dress from the veil to soccer player David Beckham's pink-varnished toenails.
Mstislav Rostropovich: Cellist, Teacher, Legend [图书] 谷歌图书
作者: Elizabeth Wilson 出版社: Faber & Faber 2011 - 05
Published to coincide with Rostropovich's 80th birthday celebrationsMstislav Rostropovich, internationally recognised as one of the world's finest cellists and musicians, has always maintained that teaching is an important responsibility for great artists. Before his emigration in 1974 from Russia to the West, Rostropovich taught several generations of the brightest Russian talents - as Professor of the Moscow Conservatoire - over a continuous period of two decades. His students included such artists as Jacqueline du Pré, Nataliyia Gutman, Karine Georgian, Ivan Monighetti and many others Rostropovich's teaching represented not only his individual approach to cello repertoire and instrumental technique, but also comprised a philosophy of life. As soon as he returned from his frequent concert tours, he would launch himself with whirlwind energy into his teaching activities. His lessons, which were conducted as open masterclasses , were awaited eagerly as an event of huge importance. Class 19 of the Moscow Conservatoire, where they were held, was usually packed with students (violinists , conductors and pianists as well as cellists). Often other professors dropped in, as did visiting musicians. The lessons were performances in themselves: Rostropovich - usually seated at the piano - cajoled and inspired his students to give the best of themselves. His comments went far beyond correcting the students in making them understand the essence of the work they were playing. Often this was done through striking imagery, and as such the lessons were addressed to the wider audience present in the classroom as well as to the individual student. Drawing from her own vivid reminiscences and those of ex-students, documents from the Moscow Conservatoire and extensive interviews with Rostropovich himself , Elizabeth Wilson's book sets out to define his teaching, and to recapture the atmosphere of the conservatoire and Moscow's musical life.